Friday, February 3, 2012

A spiritual journey


This is an unlikely post. I was never given to spirituality. As in other things, on this journey I discovered a new dimension in me. Not that I embraced a religion. But my experience has changed me so much that brought something that I do not know how to use another word besides spirituality. Tamil Nadu was where it took place. A delightful coincidence. I had chosen to visit this state because of its temples and spirituality is something that is all around you.

Madurai

It is the heart of the city. Dominates the landscape and gives it a magical touch. It has a healthy mix of calm and agitation. Despite the Indian hustle-hustle you don't feel overwhelmed. When you reach the center, two different worlds co-exist. On one hand, the confusion of trade and power lines. On the other, the calm of the temple. The street that separates these two sides, is strangely clean. The temple is beautiful. The towers - gateway to the complex - follow the cardinal points and are richly decorated. You have to choose between losing yourself among this beauty or wonder in the movement of people.

But Madurai was also the place where I tamed my mind. After awhile, I decided it was time to get organized and start to write more methodically. It was hard. I had plenty to distract me. Outside a city that moved and called for me. Inside the comfort of a good hotel. The fight was brutal, but aeverytime I looked at the temple complex while having a great meal I was sure I was on the right track.

Trichy

The journey continued in another city. By this time, my body was already accustomed to the vicissitudes of Indian buses. Neither the confusion of the bus stations impressed me. However, Trichy gave me much more than I was accustomed. For the first time I felt the Indian smell. I had some clues before but nothing too intense. The result of a terrible combination of water, heat and trash. But this is something you have to prepare your body if you want to take advantage of what India has to offer. India has never been easy. But always interesting. It is a place that combines antagonistic realities and let the choice be yours. Mine was overcome these obstacles.

In good time I did. Trichy has beautiful places to behold. The area of the fort is a shopping area par excellence. Lose yourself smoothly and you always find something that steals a smile. In my case, and after having tried unsuccessfully to reach the top of the fort, just by entering a Hindu temple. Inside almost no light light and a few people meditating. I entered a new world. Until the moment when I was "discovered" by one of the elements of the temple. He accompanied me with his sympathy to the exit door. The moment was made and I decided to go to the temple that marks this city.

I crossed the river am before the first of the towers of the temple entrance. They seem portals to other worlds. At first, the street below filled with merchants and beggars. While walking the confusion is left behind and the devotion starts. Turns out to be a good temple to be. I like to watch the people with different costumes and colorful saris, giving a unique life in this space. After much hesitation, I finally decided not to enter the center of the complex. I have noticed that most sites are sacred spaces for worship and I'm not devout. It could kill my curiosity, but it would be just that. I'd rather replace it with respect for those who use that space for the purpose it is intended.

Thiruvannamalai

I arrived at the festival days. It was full moon, and by this time thousands of faithful flock to this city. The worship is Shiva in the form of fire. And the flames spread to the city's altars and in front of the four entrances of the temple. It amazes me the amount of people who are here. I never thought a small town could contain so many devotees. Around the temple, a queue that would leave the one in Vatican museum to shame. In the face of the people the image of a long wait.

I walk by outside the temple, in one of the side the people, on the other a row of street shops. Much of this is food to satisfy the faithful. In each fire, a group of people to join their prayers, folding his hands over their heads.

It is night, and while I go down the street to return to the hotel, I repair in the “star” of the night. After many attempts it is the first time I can capture the full moon. I say first, because I had never capture it so large and clear. A woman was curious about what I was doing makes some conversatoin. Introduces me to his daughter, who speaks to me in perfect English and devastating smile - as only children have (and Indian in particular).

I ended up joining the queue around the city. An unstoppable chain of people. I did not know the way. I did not need it to know. Here and there the cows were played and appreciated. I'm not sure whether to bless or be blessed. I assume a little of both. Their milk was given to the pilgrims at the door of another temple, so they could make a blessing.

I am overcome by fatigue and return home. A good night sleep and the next day I went up the mountain that is the center of this city. An ancient volcano, where Shiva appeared and gave rise to this cult and temple. The path is steep, and under this sun, hard. I do it at my own pace until you find a place to sit. I have the shadow of the bramble to keep me company and stop a few seconds to contemplate the landscape. At the center the temple with its perfect geometry. All around the chaos of the Indian city, with its Picassian cubic houses and small streets. I let my self go in contemplation. I notice a smile, different from what I was used to, forming inside of me. A quiet smile that came from my spirit.

Tamil Nadu, was an experience. I meet here the diversity and unity of India. The smells that repel us and others that attract us. The temples so alike and different. It is a impossible and real combination. A combination that was slowly coming into me when I came to India, and that materialized in Tamil Nadu. In a journey that, most of all, was spiritual.

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