Train Journey

It was with a big smile I got the ticket. And I went like that to the train station in Chennai - Chennai Central. Although not beautiful, it has its own beauty. One of travel and movement. Goodbyes, hugs and the hurry of arrival to destination. I'm always nervous when I'm about to leave. A nerve that was being consumed by tobacco until I had just one cigarette.

With this task accomplished, I enter the terminal. I find my platform, and move on toward the train. With the number in mind, and time in hand, the carriage and the place was easily found. Walk by 2nd class and realize why it is not recommended for tourists. It's amazing how many people can fit into so little space.

I go to my carriage, which is a huge upgrade ... ok, not that much. The big difference between them is that here you have more space. And that makes all the difference. Although the coach takes more people than seats available, is airy enough to make you feel at ease. Inside all was white and blue. Now it is camouflaged by the dark of dust and antiquity. The fans need help of a hair comb to start. A traveler – a professional for sure – gets one started. I have some mosquitoes for company, and think it will be a good choice to upgrade. The 1st class no longer seems a luxury but a necessity.

Once the train starts, we enter another world. The bed preparation starts. The chair backs are raised and attached to two chains creating the midle berth. The bottom is where we were sitting. I was in the bottom one. Two Indian friends ask me to “go up a level” because they are travelling together. No problem with that. All prepare their beds. Friends discuss for the best place, while others make the bed on the floor. After one hour we're all lying and other symphony begins to overcome the rails. A snoring one. And what could be something bad, brings peace to my consciousness. Runs a rumor - certainly an evil one – that I snore. If true, and not saying it is, it is good to have company.

During the night, the biggest problem is the cold. Being a metal carriage with little insulation, the temperature falls to levels unimagined in India. To the point that my neurons no longer work and I forget that I had a sleeping bag. I spent half the night trying to find the best position to keep my precious heat. When the first rays of sun touch the coach I feel a huge relief. With a new day, comes a new animation.

To the chorus of conversations and morning rites, joins the voice of the vendors. We know the experience of every seller by the conviction, and musicality, that they tout their products. Complete meals - with the delicious smell of spices to follow - snacks, fruit, coffee, tea and even jewelery. Transforming that corridor into a bazaar similar to many others.

After 14 hours, addiction begins to tighten. By now I ask all the sellers if they sell cigarettes. But I just confirm what I already knew: in the Indian stations they do not sell it. With more refined senses, a black and yellow “group” near a small station awakens my attention. From the window I could see the rickshaws parked across the line. I go to the door to confirm my intuition: nearby was one of those little Indian grocery shops. Probably they were the inspiration for the sport billy's bag. Look to the left. Look to the right. And run like my life depended on it. It wasn't life that I feared but that a train arrived and blocked my way back. I hit a 50 meters' record. And I believe the speed at which I said "tabac, cigarrettes, tabac" was identical to the touters on buses. Cigarettes in hand and I return calmer. I didn't hear any train, and mine was still in the same place. When the passengers saw the cigarettes they ask me where I had bought them. I tell my story. Strangely, no one followed my example.

By this time, the coach seemed to be my little Indian home. On one side overlooked the city. On the other, the field. I forget all that feeling of strangeness and willingness to change for first class. When I go to sleep, cradled by a beautiful sunset, I feel that better home was impossible...