Thursday, April 5, 2012

Kathmandu - A strange familiarity


I need to make an introductory note in this 'travel article. " Walking also means learning our limitations. One of them became clear. With each passing day, I withdraw more from the "travel article" style. I still don't have complete mastery of my writing to be able to take this space to the destination I want to lead it. However, because I believe to be important to show the places where I've been, I don't stop this rubric. But it will be more to the flavor of the moment of imagination than of a certain style - indeed increasingly I think my style is not having one. I hope you have the patience to follow the evolution and different facets that this space will have.

I decided that because Kathmandu proved an obstacle impossible to transpose. I couldn't get it in the format of this rubric. To this, it contributed the change in me. At first, the place was the most important. Today I haven't such interest. I still “wow” myself to the surprise of a large landscape or monument. But my focus has shaped itself to the people around me and the unique emotions that every place gives us.

Rather than describe the Pashupatinath (a very nice area of temples), Swayambhunath (aka Monkey Temple) or the Durbar Square, my interest is explaining the feeling of being in Khatmandu. Maybe you'll find it strange the word I will use, but what I felt was: familiarity. I don't know if this happened because of the dream I had years ago - and that materialized when I arrived - or because it is the feeling of this place.

But the unpaved streets, dusty aspect or the mixture of different traits were not strange to me. Being in Kathmandu is to be in a cradle of humanity. From here we follow a line that leads us to anywhere. And Nepal has much of India as has Portugal. Yes, here and there, you recognize the hand gestures similar to those of the Indians. And there is no escaping the "Namaste" that accompanies the exchange of greetings. But these traits appear by fusion with other cultures. You have the temples that are already closer to China than from India. In some houses you will find the smell of Western architecture. You are enchanted by a song that does not deviate much from the Andean South America. And every trace of the face of a Nepali can escape to a different continent.
Perhaps this familiar feeling appears because you see a little bit of everything in everything. Or by the returning to my youth. In my neighborhood. When I went to the Monkey Temple - which sits atop a hill – I couldn't predict what to expect. I left Thamel - a main district of tourism, trade and confusion - and ended up in an unpaved road. My senses told me I was correct, but between houses that seemed I was in a street of my neighborhood. Of course it was only a brief illusion. But when I crossed the river - and got lost looking for this temple – I could be back in my childhood walking by the stream - what was more a sewer - among reeds and gardens.

When I finally got up the hill, everything was behind. But this magnificent place also didn't seem strange. The Stupa, with eyes that see everything, become warm. And the wheels of the prayers, that I had imagined for so long, were already part of me. Combining with this long walk, was a talk with Kash - a friend of the friend who helped me unlock this country - that led me to discussions about religion and ways of life, and above all, to the common thing of all humanity: feelings.

Kathmandu is a place of narrow streets, beautiful squares and friendly people. Tourist center and political capital. But most of all, is a familiar place. Where I don't mind getting lost and floating in my imagination. Here I always end up finding the smile, the beautiful detail or the necessary help. I do not know if you will find the same city. But if this happens, send greetings, such as when delivered to a common friendship.

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